Friday 28 March 2014

THE GORGEOUS GUADELOUPE

 

 

I think I've just found my new favourite place.....Guadeloupe!!! We had no idea what to expect before we arrived, our thoughts were that it would probably be another typical Caribbean island and we couldn't have been more wrong! Not a Rasta in sight and no Reggae music....it's a quaint French island with the most beautiful rainforest, incredible diving, calm anchorages and what has made it so special, swimming with dolphins!

 

We had a great sail from Nevis, via the active volcano on Monserrat. What a sad sight it was to see the devastation the Soufriere Hills volcano caused. The entire town of Plymouth has been destroyed by the lava flow, one can see houses, a church and businesses, half covered in covered in debris and a ghost town left behind after everyone was evacuated. One can trace the path of the lava flow on either side of the volcano, which last erupted in 1999. It is still smoking and as one sails past you get a strong sulphur smell and dust and ash landed on the boat.

SMOKE FROM THE VOLCANO AND THE DESTROYED TOWN OF PLYMOUTH
THE PATH OF THE LAVA FLOW

 

This is the first passage I have actually enjoyed because we sailed just about all the way, with 16 knots of wind and a flat sea. It took us 12 hours to do 75 miles.

3 BARACUDA'S CAUGHT ON THE PASSAGE
ARRIVING IN GUADELOUPE

 

ANCHORAGE IN DESHAIES

We arrived in the anchorage of Deshaies in Guadeloupe to a beautiful sunset and the chiming of church bells. We were so surprised to see a beautiful village and anchorage tucked into the mountains.

 

We cleared in the following day, on the computer at the local curio shop, no formalities, no customs officials and only a cost of 4 Euros. What a treat, we're so tired of "Customs and Irritation" at this stage of our travels!

 

FISHING AROUND OUR BOAT

We hired a car for 2 days and drove around the island to the local dive spots and went hiking in the rainforest, high in the mountains. This was spectacular, walking along well marked paths through thick forests and ending up swimming under a waterfall. It was great swimming in fresh water for a change, it was pretty cold but so invigorating.

 

DIVE SCHOOLS AT PIGEON ISLAND

The next day was one this family will cherish forever. We woke up to find a pod of dolphins around our boat. Michaela and Tayne jumped into the water to swim with them and then Stephen and I joined in. What an absolutely surreal experience.....they were so friendly and interactive, 11 in all, with moms and babies, playing and swimming with us. I will never forget the moment when I was swimming on the outside of the group and one dolphin swam right next to me for a while with his eyes closed, he then opened his eyes and looked right at me and came a little closer. We swam like that for a while and I felt such a special connection, I feel emotional when I think about it, even now. They were around our boat for the entire day, attracting people from all over the anchorage. It is amazing how happy these dolphins made people feel. We sat on our boat listening to the the shrieks and laughter coming from everyone who came into contact with them. Michaela and Tayne spent most of the day in the water, Michaela taking some beautiful underwater photos. We celebrated the day over a glass of wine at sunset and watched them swim out of the bay as the sun disappeared below the horizon. What special times, we're so blessed to have experienced this day with these gentle creatures.

A DAY WITH THE DOLPHINS

 

We're still in the same anchorage, 5 days later, and are reluctant to move on. There is a Spar (yes, like home, but a whole lot more expensive), a great bakery selling the most amazing pastries and baguettes, and we have good Internet.....what more could we ask for???? Could I live here forever.......absolutely YES!!!!!

HUGH HEF!!

 

 

 

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